Monday, October 17, 2011

My Head was in the Clouds!

Yesterday was, in my mind, my birthday present. All I wanted to do was climb one of the Uluguru Mountains and our friend Frank told us it would be his pleasure to take us up to the top!

We met Frank and his friend Steve at 6:30am to start our safari (no not lions and elephants, but safari simply means journey in Swahili). We caught a daladala from our homestay and rode to downtown. From there we began our trek out of town and into the mountains. Just as we were leaving the paved road for a dirt road that ascended up the base of the mountain a baboon ran across the road (about 100ft in front of us) and into someone's yard. I asked Frank if we would see any wild monkeys and he promised me that we would definitely see some during our climb!

We began our ascent on dirt roads that provide access to the few villages on the base of the mountain. On our way up the road we were passing all of the farmers and villagers heading to town with their freshly picked bananas and produce to sell at the market in Morogoro. Some of the women had to have had close to fifty pounds of produce on their heads.

I was amazed to see how and where the villagers/farmers were farming. Some of the slopes were at such steep angles that I could barely climb and these people are growing full crops of carrots, cabbage, bananas, and corn.
Once we were off the dirt roads, it became extremely difficult to walk. The narrow dirt paths were less than a foot wide and hanging on the edge of some very steep drops. Although we left the villages behind there were farmers all the way up the mountain.
It was hard enough to hike up a mountain but in 32 degree weather with a blazing African sun, we got pretty hot and sweaty!


  Frank took us to a place known as Morning Side, which was a German settlement in colonial times and is now used as an outpost and point of reference for those climbing. We had to sign in at Morning Side and pay a small fee just in case we didn't return they knew our names and they could contact the local authorities and hospitals. That was comforting. The best part about this amazing location was that when I researched Morogoro before coming here there is a beautiful picture of Morogoro Town taken from somewhere in the Uluguru Mountains (I found the place and now I have a picture of my own).
Morogoro Town - taken from Morning Side

 From Morning Side we continued hiking for a couple more hours, the slope getting increasing more difficult and narrow. We hiked to 5000ft above sea level which was the last portion of the mountain out of the jungle (yes...jungle). The top of the Uluguru Mountains is covered in dense jungle and at this point we still could not see the top of Bondwa Peak (our destination) as it was still covered in clouds.
Hiking into the Jungle at 5000feet
Just like the jungle in the movies and books, this jungle had vines, slugs, massive trees, leaves, sounds, and birds; it was damp and dark but beautiful and mystical. We climbed through the jungle another 2000ft above see level, tiring more and more at every step but Frank is such a motivational leader that he somehow kept us focused and smiling. We reached the peak at 7000ft above sea level about six hours after leaving home. We had literally climbed into the clouds. It was breathtaking to know how high we were but there was little to see at the top (because of the clouds).
Frankie felt so bad that I didn't get to see any wild monkeys he called me over and showed me what they look like. As you can see in the background there was nothing but cloud at the top...cloud and an all-too-happy monkey.
We stayed at the peak for about an hour or so, Frank and Steve cooked us lunch in a little hut at the top. To our delight, during our time in the hut cooking and eating lunch, the clouds dissipated and the view from 7000ft became very clear. I was speechless as were the others. I have never in my life seen such views (while standing on solid ground).


After lunch and too many pictures (that will never do it justice) we began our descent, which was quick. BUT...

Just as we were heading out of the jungle, frank stopped and shushed us. We looked up and 4-5 monkeys were jumping from treetop to treetop! AAAAHHHHH!!! I scrambled for my camera and got a couple pictures and none of them are great however, I got to see wild black and white colobus monkeys, in a jungle, on a mountain top in Africa. That's right.
Look closely in the center of the photo! This was the best shot I got but the fact that I got to see them swinging from tree to tree was priceless.
We completed the descent in less than half the time it took us to get to the peak, which is normal. My feet were so happy to be back in my birks at the bottom for the walk home. 

Big ASANTE to Frank and Steve for the trip to Bondwa Peak of the Ulugurus!



4 comments:

  1. Thanks for letting me experience a little bit of your fantastic journey from here! Amazing! OXOX
    Mom

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  2. Ben, you look amazing with the amazing view behind you, what a breath taking expeience! Lisa C. xo

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  3. This is amazing Ben, I'm so happy you got to experience this opportunity and taking us along with you through this blog... Miss you friend... Ash Xoxo

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  4. im the sure the pictures dont do it justice... but it looked amazing! i so woulda brought a monkey home!!!
    hope all is well :)
    - Jenn

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